Trim tabs on a smaller boat?

Tried it again today with a 15p 3 blade.

Max rpm was 5200 with the motor all the way down and I could only hit it, not hold it.
the 13p hit redline fast.

Today I did lift the motor one more hole.
Only have one left but not sure it will help or work.
The 2" plate I have gives one hole lift also.

Man that thing smacks hard above 4000 rpm.
so much so I thought I hurt myself.
That was with a 200 lb class guy all the way front, with 6 gal can and a 15 gal LW full
So did I give him a ride.
.
So it looks like I will need to add tabs.. No way around it.
One thing I did not try but will is a 4 blade prop. I read some give more stern lift so why not try.

The problems with drilling holes below the water line....... They dealer stated it may void my Warranty on the boat.

I can not believe that a company like Lowe and as big would not test there stuff and design.
That boat carries a motor range of 40 to 75 and mine is a 60hp.
There should be no problems with this boat being a tiller with one 6 gal tank and one battery.

Also FT II vs FTIII hubs for props.
I thought I was getting a FT3 yet they gave me a FT2.
I ask for a 3 and Mercury sent me an email that states use the FT3 on bigfoot and CT motors.
They used the 2 and said it was what it called for and works fine.

The motor sounded like a popcorn maker with all the prop chat and I picked up a FT3 the other day...
Man what a difference you hear the motor and the motor only No chatter.
No rattling.
If you are changing props or have chattering try the FT3 it stopped all of it on mine.

If drilling holes below the water line may void warranty how do they recommend mounting sonar equipment?

nccatfisher said:

If drilling holes below the water line may void warranty how do they recommend mounting sonar equipment?

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They weld a block on at the factory.

Im giving them one more shot and see what the dealer and Lowe comes up with.

Mr.Gadget said:

They weld a block on at the factory.

Im giving them one more shot and see what the dealer and Lowe comes up with.

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They have changed that in the past 3 years. Mine didn't have that.

Just got off the phone with Lowe.
They ask me why I did not adjust the trim tabs on the back of the boat.

Of course I had to ask what trim tabs? He said the ones that are on the back.
Yet I again had to ask what tabs. Then he found they screwed up and did not put them on the boat.
So I have been fighting this several weeks and no one had a clue.

That was the first question I ask after the first trip, why is it doing this and why no tabs, hook, trim plate or anything else I see on all the other boats here.

So they offered to help me get tabs.
Weld on and re paint or bolt or screw on.

Waiting for the dealer to get back with me.

Get what you can out of them. You can beat those little things down to full down like landing flaps on a plane or any thing in between and it didn't make one drop of difference on mine.

Yep that is what I read and hear so I plan to go after the Bennett SLT 6x9 SS tabs.
hell they are only 125$
I wasted more money in gas driving to and from the shop, lake and time changing props than that.

I would say they will do what you need.

I put Lenco tabs on my 20' aluminum and it takes care of the issue but I wonder what pods would do. I have a 115 sitting on top of a tunnel so it sits a bit low in the stern.

Pods really do nothing running.
What i like is the step it gives you and also i can stand on the back of the boat with the dog and no need to be worried about a wave swamping me.

The take room but very nice to have.

Smart tabs worked great on my Carolina Skiff.

GSOHunter said:

Smart tabs worked great on my Carolina Skiff.

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What brand you using?

I have "On Demand" Trim Tabs on my 18ft Duckboat..... 75 Merc 2 stroke. Depends on sea conditions,but generally I can eliminate the porpoising by adjusting trim/tilt.......

Its all about the transom angle ,Not difficult to fix but lowe and polar craft got it wrong.I have fixed two but you shouldnt have to.Boat builders need to test their boats.A lowe will beat your brains out even with the motor tucked as far under the boat as possible.

So what do you look for on the transom?

Ranger, Titon, and Alumacraft sound like that have the same problem, also grizzlies.

Mr.Gadget said:

So what do you look for on the transom?

Ranger, Titon, and Alumacraft sound like that have the same problem, also grizzlies.

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I have Grizzly now and it didn't have any of the bouncing. I am running my motor one notch from the highest position as far as tuck. You would barely get above an idle without getting your guts beat out with my Lowe in that position.