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Thread: 1860 Army Blackhawk

  1. #11
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    Here are some comparisons of the assembled 1860 Army Colt grip on the Ruger New Model Blackhawk as compared to a pristine and bone stock 1968 Ruger Old Model 3 Screw Blackhawk. (Comparisons to the 3 screw are made cause I don't have wood for the New Model frame....just an ugly Pacmeyer and I don't want my old model wood buggered by movin it around on frames. But, the comparison's below to the Old Model frame should be close enough to the New Model to give one an ider of the changes.)

    The 1860 Army Colt grip has a lot less wood down the back than the Old Model, effectively allowing smaller hands to reach the trigger.



    The 1860 Army Colt grip has a lot less wood all the way around than the Old Model. It'll be more pinkie wrap friendly for everybody.



    The 1860 Army Colt grip is lots longer than the Old Model.



    From above you can see the 1860 Army Colt grip is smaller and slightly more forward than the Old Model.





    With the faces of the recoil shields lined up we can see some differences in the thickness and length of the trigger guard loop and plate where it attaches to the frame.

    Last edited by Sharps40; 06-29-2014 at 03:27 PM.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  2. #12
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    Time to fix the number one flaw in every New Model Blackhawk. Ya can't pull the cylinder pin out of the frame cause its a couple of fingernails thickness too long.



    Nice big bulbus rounded end smacks into the ejector button and ya can't get the cylinder pin out for cleaning....at least not without unscrewing the ejector rod housing from the barrel which leads to boogered screw heads and in short order a set of stripped threads in the barrel and yer off to the gunsmith hopin for a repair an not a new barrel.



    Grind off the bulbusness, smooth it over slightly round....



    Slip it in past the ejector rod button, nice, lotsa room to swing it in and out now, then stab it home and yer done.





    Way too long barrel with ugly front sight is shortened a bit. I'll leave the factory barrel 5.1" right now and square, chamfer and crown it. That clears the Ruger Instruction Manual on the Left side.....havn't decided if I'll polish it off for a clean look. But, 5.1" is a good length for a hunting handgun and like I said, a minimum hunting barrel length in several states. The Ruger Lightning on top has a 3.5" barrel and ejector rod assembly....its also set up so that the cylinder pin can be removed without taking off the entire ejection system. Ya should be able to clean and inspect the major components of a Blackhawk without tools and touching up the length of the cylinder pin gets you 100% there.



    Initial square, crown and chamfer, done with piloted hand tools as described in my many threads on gunsmithing.



    So, todays work....a quick look. I think its coming together nicely. Still need a front sight selection and some other cosmetic metal work....and naturally, some long hours with the 1860 Army Colt brass grip frame.

    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  3. #13
    Old Mossy Horns nccatfisher's Avatar
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    Should be able to braze a piece on each side for the main spring. Or braze a bar across but you would have to make the lower a one piece assembly then.

  4. #14
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    That might work too easy...basically a pair of king studs to support the lintel! I think we can also make a Z bar for single screw with the foot pressed into the back strap or dovetailed in so no soldering.....or perhaps a simple Strap Box like the Safety Lock eliminator. Not sure yet.

    Will for sure have to either set up for the bottom mounted trigger return plunger like the 3 Screw or silver braze in a block up top for the New Model Trigger Return spring. A lot will depend on the amount of room inside for the main spring and strut.
    Last edited by Sharps40; 06-29-2014 at 07:27 PM.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  5. #15
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    Boy O....the New Model Blackhawk frame is noticeable longer than the Old Model. Like 3/16" or so on the calibrated eyeball.

    A quick look at the trigger to guard relationships. Mainspring too. Hammer to complete the picture and kinda help rough in the locations of the parts.

    This is lookin good so far, some work, but perhaps not insurmountable.

    The feel of that grip is pretty excellent. I'll have to get it together and put on a try sight for some shooting. I'm wondering if a bisley hammer is going to be so low when cocked that the hand will be in its way.



    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  6. #16
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    Getting some of the front end stuff done cause its gonna be the same whether its 1860 Army Colt or Birdshead out back.

    So. A pic of where its at and usein my standard methods, duct tape a try sight, in this case a shortened Williams ramp into place with a 3/32" brass bead....just to start getting a feel for how a slimmer trimmer ramp sight with removable blades might look. May have to epoxy this into place for a shooting test before going final.



    Did the cylinder chamfer. Not much to it. Run it both ways in the drill press or if not reversible, run it one way up and one way down to get an even chamfer on both sides of the flutes. (the file cuts hardest at the leading edge of each flute, so your chamfer looks tapered wide to narrow between the flutes unless you reverse directions to even it up....it ain't no lathe remember? Also, not too deep, so as not to uncover the back of the barrel, just to the bottom of the flute or shallower is fine.) Then some work with 120 grit backed by a file to remove almost all o the pitting on the cylinder. Just a touch left near one locking notch. I don't know iffin it'll come out or not. I'll get back to it later....this cylinder may get an experimental home caustic blue before final polish and finishing out the entire gun. We'll see.



    A quick tour around the rough assembly as it stands now.









    The lettering sure is ugly and the back of the ramp could use a bit of thinning.



    But the Operational View is pretty spankey right on....

    Last edited by Sharps40; 07-07-2014 at 01:29 PM.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  7. #17
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    We should know more in a few weeks. I want to get all the front half metal work done to about the 80% level and then pull the wood stock and see how much trouble I'm gonna be in with the Colt grip. Theys a lot of butt scratching and head rubbin to do back there if it stands any chance at all of comin out functional an reliable.

    Challenges include:

    a. Room and fitting the mainspring assembly and its foot.
    b. Fitting either of two possible trigger return springs, new or old model style.
    c. Opening the trigger slot in the guard and/or thinning the trigger.
    d. Drilling the trigger guard for the locking bolt spring and plunger.
    e. Filling one hole in the trigger guard and redrilling it to match the forward most grip screw hole.
    f. And, modifying the original wood grip for clearance of all the new guts in the grip or making up a two piece grip panel or both.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  8. #18
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    I was asked to explain the purpose of the black powder/colt style cylinder chamfer I put on this cylinder and the Blackhawk Lightning. My response is as follows.....

    Its up to an expensive custom touch that if you can say it does anything of value, it nominally accomplishes the following three things....

    1. may mimic the look of a Colt cylinder

    2. may ease transition into a tight leather holster

    3. may empty yer wallet against more useful customization (sights, grips, trigger job, etc.) if you pay to have it done
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  9. #19
    Old Mossy Horns pattersonj11's Avatar
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    I really like the colors now. That cylinder adds enough "pop" to make it look handsome, yet still a work tool. I'm sure rust would love it too lol.

    Polished with black accents might be something I have to keep in mind. Glad your pic sparked an image for me.

  10. #20
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    I've seen some Blackhawks converted to two tone with stainless parts. Its easy to overdo it. I like the two tone of brass and black. Also like the two tone of black barrel/cylinder and a greyed/faded frame.
    Last edited by Sharps40; 07-02-2014 at 06:14 AM.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

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