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Thread: 1860 Army Blackhawk

  1. #61
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    Stainless steel is great. It holds a polish nearly for ever. It holds scratches nearly forever too. After a good buffing, a dull factory hammer comes up to a mirror shine and is ready for jeweling.









    And a simple but functional modification to the loading gate. Its a thick chunk of metal....rather like an acorn with a hinge. A bit of work on the backside makes room for the thumb to be inserted and flip the gate open. Its not a visible modification, just one that helps guide the thumb in to place to positively get it open....its nice when you are wearing gloves on a cold day.

    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  2. #62
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    I spose I can start polish and blue on the small parts and cylinder this weekend. The sauce is in and so are the studs needed for the ejector rod housing. But the bloodwood could be from 5 to 21 days from order before it even ships. Slow boat from South America I spose. Got some finish work to do on the brass triggerguard too so, might as well get a bit of synergy by working two issues at once.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  3. #63
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    Ruger parts are cast. There are parting lines. On the hammer, they are left on the face. Where the nose rests on the frame and where the step impacts the transfer bar. The left side is taller than the right. That means the frame and transfer bar is hit by the left half of the hammer each time it falls. I'll even it out so that it doesn't eventually pound a dent in the left side of the impacted parts.

    Here it is....the face of the hammer, as received from Ruger is the only part of the hammer not machined...its left as cast on the replacement parts. (On my factory hammer, the nose and step are polished/fitted for an even blow) You can see the mold parting line down the center of the nose and step. It has sharp edges which would need dressed down anyway.



    About half way thru the stoning of the hammer and we see, the left is taller than the right (The low spot is in the center). I'll stone it down even and then do final checks for transfer bar pinch and firing pin protrusion and make any needed adjustments to either or both of the nose and/or the step.

    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  4. #64
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    And the hammer stoned to the 90% level. Shortened the nose a bit to improve firing pin protrusion and no pinch. Last steps will be to pull the hammer and make a few swipes on an Arkansas stone to even it up and final spot check it into the frame/transfer bar with a touch of Prussian blue.

    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  5. #65
    Old Mossy Horns pattersonj11's Avatar
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    Sharps, are there ways to preserve the raw steel from rusting without getting rid of the silvery luster? I really like your colors. A painted horse in the pistol world I guess. Just curious for myself if I want something similar in style down the road.

  6. #66
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    I could put it up in matt clear baking laquer and it would look French Grey but it wouldn't hold up for spit. I'll blue it. There are some folks that have Blue Blackhawks that install Stainless screws/ejector housing and grip frame. Not sure I like the look. I think the stainless ejector on the blued barrel ruins it for me. I do however like the look of a well blued gun but with the frame worn back to a greyish hue.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  7. #67
    Four Pointer xtp308's Avatar
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    Keep it up !!!!!
    I love these build threads from Sharps !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  8. #68
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    Well, thanks. I appreciate your kind words. On a separate note, I have a 45 Colt inbound. Not sure what I'll do with it.
    Last edited by Sharps40; 08-01-2014 at 01:35 PM.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  9. #69
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    No work on this one today. Went looking at a new house with 20 acres of hardwoods on it....lovely I want it! But gotta sell my place first. In the meantime, I scrounged up an old 45 caliber muzzleloading jag that no one uses anymore. I think I'll machine it down into a solder in plug for the trigger guard front screw hole. That'll let me redrill and countersink the hole about a half a diameter to the rear and get everything lined up with the frame thread. But first, I'll start early tomorrow morning prepping the cylinder and all the small parts for rust bluing. The garage is 90% humidity and perfect for rust bluing but it sure slows down the drying of the fresh primer and paint I put on the floor of John Lee....his original rubber mat and tarpaper are all inna garbage now. Prolly gonna finish with some mossy oak camo insert floor mats and maybe a black rubber pad over the hump or maybe a camo pad over the hump. I ain't decided yet but the ol blue 65 truck needs a touch o camo.
    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

  10. #70
    Twelve Pointer Sharps40's Avatar
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    For rust bluing. Small parts are spray degreased after polishing. In this case, the parts are new, unpitted and polished to dull 150g to 220g and then matted with a wire wheel. They are ready to rust blue.



    Larger parts with lots of hiding places for grease and gunk, spray degreased then boiled once in clean water. After which they will need a final polish or wire brush to remove instant rust from boiling.. In the case of the cylinder, a wire brushing of the flutes and a 150g finish on the surface of the cylinder (some light freckeling on the surface just a bit deeper than I want to polish out.....so, mute them a bit in a matt finish.)

    Anybody says ya got to have one thing over another, specially if ye got the knowin of whats right for you, is tryin to pack the sand from his crack in yours. Ignore him. Carry what you are proficient and comfortable with.

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