Anyone here upgrade/build a 10/22 for better accuracy?

Got a stock 10/22, thinking about upgrading the accuracy. Trigger/barrel etc. Any tips or advice? Thanks

One of the easiest rigs to make accurate.
Trigger http://www.kiddinnovativedesign.com/Two-Stage_c_14.html
Barrel http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Match-Stainless-Steel-Rifle-Bull-Barrel_p_27.html
Stock is whichever Boyds stock floats your boat.
There are cheaper options than Kidd but theyre about the most accurate


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Kidd barrel. Boyd's stock. The factory trigger can be tuned to 1 pound, not really any need to spend the money on a replacement. Square/true the bolt/bolt face. Modify the rear of the action to allow for chamber to muzzle bore cleaning. Pretty much my standard 10/22 accuracy build. 1/4" groups at 50yds with match ammo that the rifle likes is the norm even with the ultra light rigs.

I didnt think you could reliably tweak a 10/22 trigger 1SHOT, wish id known that before i bought the kidd trigger grp


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the Kidd barrels are nice, the last couple I've built I've put tactical solutions barrels and houge stocks on them for super light hunting rigs and haven't been disappointed in accuracy.

TravisLH said:

I didnt think you could reliably tweak a 10/22 trigger 1SHOT, wish id known that before i bought the kidd trigger grp


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Click to expand...

It is not difficult at all to get a factory stock down to 1.5 pounds. With a little more patience, stoning, and polishing you can get it down to a nice crisp 1 pound, if you know how.

TravisLH said:

I didnt think you could reliably tweak a 10/22 trigger 1SHOT, wish id known that before i bought the kidd trigger grp


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Click to expand...

The old aluminum housing ones were a cinch to do. The new polymer ones are a little different and require some shimming but can be done.

Built several 10/22's. No end to tricking them out. rimfirecentral.com is a great place to learn and learn the ropes. I prefer Volquartsen barrels over any others. They all don't shoot the same though. I've tried all the major brands and Volquartsens have been very consistent for me. Titan, Magnum Research, Whistle Pig, Green Mountain and Tac-Sol all make good barrels. My current semi-serious 10/22 bench gun wears a Volquartsen THM barrel and will put 9 out of 10 into a single ragged hole. The first round is always a little off.

<>< Fish

1SHOT1KILL said:

It is not difficult at all to get a factory stock down to 1.5 pounds. With a little more patience, stoning, and polishing you can get it down to a nice crisp 1 pound, if you know how.

Click to expand...

Ever try the JB Weld trick?

<>< Fish

You can radius the back of the bolt to make it cycle more consistent and smoother. I have one built for shooting nothing but sub-sonic rounds that has be lightened and has a radius bolt that is very smooth. It is my go-to semi-auto squirrel gun.

<>< Fish

Start by measuring the rim thickness of the ammo. Sort them. One thickness will usually provide best accuracy. Save the other rounds for plinking at cans and golf balls. I found that cheep federal lightning, sorted, (middle thickness was most accurate) gave results at 25 yards about the same as the $5 ato $8 per box federal target rounds.

Got a couple pretty accurate 22's. One is a Takedown with a volquartsen barrel and Volquartsen trigger which is crazy accurate for a takedown. 10 shot group at 50 yards I covered up with a dime. If you notice the 15# in the photo... Thats from a test I did. 10#, 15#, 20# and so on up to 30# of torque applied to the takedown screw. CCI Standard Velocity and 15# won. Also tested Gemtech. So not match grade ammo. Just the stuff we shoot alot of, which is subsonic, becuase we also use a Spectre II suppressor.

To any of you guys with 10/22s or probably any 22, Takedown or not. If you have a torque wrench (wheeler fat wrench).. I recommend giving this little test a try. It didnt make a hugeee difference, but it DID make a difference in the group sizes.


Oh and Sharps comment on cans and golfballs reminded me..

DumDum suckers.. are super fun targets... Just get you a 2x4 or saw buck and drill a bunch of little holes maybe 1/2" deep and put the sticks in them. When you really get a hold of one they just vaporize in the air. Lots of fun. fairly cheap too. I just bought like a 500 pack for $4 after halloween

FishHunt said:

Ever try the JB Weld trick?

<>< Fish

Click to expand...

No. I use a more permanent and old school trick that achieves the same results.

nccatfisher said:

The old aluminum housing ones were a cinch to do. The new polymer ones are a little different and require some shimming but can be done.

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I do not like the new polymer frame trigger housings. I will work on them if the customer is set on using it, but if I can convince them to switch it out for an aluminum one, I keep a few stuck back in a drawer for such occasions. I like the old style hammers as well that uses the bushings on each side. I'll make my own bushings, to achieve the desired fit, instead of using shims.

1SHOT1KILL said:

No. I use a more permanent and old school trick that achieves the same results.

Click to expand...

Care to share it with the crowd?

<>< Fish

As you are aware the purpose of the JB Weld trick is to fill the gap between the top of the sear and the bottom of the disconnector, eliminating slop between the sear and the disconnector, thus eliminating the creep in the trigger.

There are 2 other old school methods to achieve the same result, but is much more permanent. One is to braze that same area up and dress it back down with a fine file and stone. The other method, which is what I do, is to drill a hole through that portion of the sear and then tap/drive a 1/4" long piece of drill rod which is the same diameter as the drilled hole, leaving about .065" or so sticking out the top. I use red loc-tite to lock it in place even though you will have to tap it pretty good it in, then a couple pings with a center punch just to make sure. You then have file and stone that down until you get the desired crispness that you are looking for, yet functional and safe trigger. These 2 methods take longer and involve much more trial and error than the JB Weld method but is permanent, looks much better, much less chance of something coming loose and falling into the trigger assembly.

I use the method to set the sear engagement on old rifles that have no "adjustment" in the trigger, like old Remington #2 rolling blocks, Martini-Enfield's, etc.

1SHOT1KILL said:

As you are aware the purpose of the JB Weld trick is to fill the gap between the top of the sear and the bottom of the disconnector, eliminating slop between the sear and the disconnector, thus eliminating the creep in the trigger.

Click to expand...

Yes, and thanks for sharing.

<>< Fish

I went with a trigger job through Brimstone Gunsmithing. I went with the tier 1 job. It came back today and I'm happy with it. I'm no gunsmith by any means so I spent about $125 and have a nice hunting trigger. Set at 2 lbs. And absolutely no creep and a great return. Minute of squirrel accuracy at 30 yards with a factory barrel and 4x32 scope using bulk ammo. Can't get pics to load.

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